Is your grill showing any of the following symptoms?
- The grill won't get hotter than 250 to 400 F.
- The grill is hard to light.
- The more burners you light, the lower the flames get.
If it is, you might not be lighting your grill properly, and could be in what we call "bypass".
If your grill is showing signs of being in bypass or you hear any hissing noise or small gas, the first thing to do is perform a gas leak test, since that’s why the safety device was created.
Check out this article on performing a gas leak test.
If you don't find a gas leak, the instructions below will get you out of bypass and will keep you from going into bypass in the future.
It’s really simple to avoid going into bypass:
Make sure the lid of your grill is open, and that all the control knobs on the grill are in the OFF position, including the side burner knob, if you have one.
- Visually confirm all burners are extinguished (no flame present).
- Visually confirm no burning grease / food particles in the cook box, bottom tray or catch pan (grease management system).
- If flames are present, DO NOT engage the tank valve or regulator until all visible flames are extinguished.
- Once all flames are extinguished, turn on your gas supply by opening the valve on top of the tank.
Turn on your gas supply by opening the valve on top of the tank.
Wait for several seconds (up to 60) for pressure to build up in the hose before doing anything. The pressure is going to push the device into place to give it the “all clear” for normal operation. Waiting for the pressure to build up is the most important part of this process.
After you’ve waited a little bit, go ahead and light your grill as you normally would by turning the appropriate burner to start/high and hitting the igniter button. The actual lighting instructions may vary based on which model you own. Make sure to refer to your owner’s manual for details.
- Light all the main burners and set them to high, then close the lid. Give your grill about 10 to 15 minutes and it should reach about 500 to 550 F, which means your grill is now working properly.
To view a video version of these instructions, check out the video below.
If those instructions didn’t work, here are a few other things to consider.
- The "start" position that you use to light the grill is also the "high" position. The further you turn the knobs, the lower you are setting the grill. It could be possible that you are setting the grill to low instead of high.
- Consider whether the cooking properties of the grill actually changed. It could be possible the thermometer has failed and is just giving you a false reading.
- Make sure that you have gas in your propane tank.
- Make sure that the hose/regulator is properly secured to the tank.
- Cold weather can delay the time it takes to equalize the pressure inside of the hose/regulator, so if it’s cold outside, make sure to give the hose/regulator some extra time to pressurize before turning a control knob to light the grill. Check out more of our cold weather grilling tips here.
If the tips and instructions above haven't solved the issue, click here to reach out to us by email, or call us at 1-800-446-1071, and we’ll be happy to help get your Weber working properly again so you can get back to grilling!
ADDITIONAL INFO ON THE SAFETY DEVICE
This safety device is a component of all LP gas regulators and is designed to reduce the flow of gas in the event of a leak. If the grill isn’t lit properly, the safety device will “think” you have a gas leak and reduce the gas flow from the tank to about 10% or less of its normal volume.